0 Kaaradgi Eranna Gudi & ruins of an ancient temple

I was told about Kaaradgi by an aunt more than a year ago. Even after several rounds of research the exact location of the place remained unknown until the day I received Shivaleela's wedding invite. The wedding was planned at Kaaradgi Eranna temple and I was told how to reach; Dharwad-Shiggaon-Kaaradgi or Dharwad-Savanur-Kaaradgi.

December 9, 2012

Earlier during the day we had stopped at Adargunchi and Budarsinghi villages to see Doddappana Gudi and Hanuman temple. We reached Kaaradgi village by 10-30. On the village outskirts, right next to the road are these herostones.

Eranna temple is about a kilometer from Kaaradgi village. Its a very popular pilgrim center in Haveri and surrounding districts.The temple seen here is the new structure. We met Pushpa and few relatives at the temple. Wedding ceremonies had started early morning. I was wondering if this cement and steel structure had replaced the ancient temple. I was relieved when Pushpa told us about the underground temple.

The underground temple is right next to the new temple. Its neglected and remains an unprotected monument. That's Shivu standing on the central dome.

I feel the temple might have been destroyed during an enemy raid. It's quite a big temple- these remains indicate a large hall, perhaps a Sabha Mantapa.

Assuming the temple had a Sabha Mantapa, we can say this is the entrance to the Antharala. Now, without the Sabha Mantapa standing this seems like the main entrance of the temple.

As I stepped into the Natya Mantapa, we could 3 Garbhagudi which means this temple is a Trikutachala Standing in the Natya Mantapa  we are looking at the east-facing Garbhagudi. The inside was dusty but there was evidence of efforts to keep the place tidy. The pillars are basically squares with 16 sided fluted sections in the middle and top portion are circular sections. Architecture is similar to Bankapur Nagareshwara temple.

Shiva Linga in the east-facing Garbhagudi,

The temple is not really simple. Notice the Jaalandra flanking the door, as seen from inside the Garbhagudi.

This is the entrance to the south-facing Garbhagudi.

South-facing Garbhagudi as seen from the Antharala. Notice the elaborate sculptures decorating the door frame.

This is the north-facing Garbahgudi. As you see it's badly damages and the roof has collapsed completely.

I wish ASI takes care of this temple ruins and declare it a protected monument.

Wedding rituals were over and the newly wedded couple were getting ready for the reception. We had to wait for some time until the couple were onstage. While we wait we could check out the open air museum - that's what we chose to call but in reality it is a place for visitors to sit. We could see people sitting, having lunch and one or two lying down. Obviously these are parts of the temple we saw earlier.

In the center of the museum is this beautiful Basavanna. Unlike Basavanna seen at most places this one is not a calf, he seems like a grown up ox.

Remains of columns. The museum also has a herostone bearing a Kannada inscription (see inset).

Modern art work competes with ancient art work and looses out miserably. These cement & steel statue cant be more than 10 years old.

This video made by Malatesh shows the temple ruins better.

Done with the temple ruins and museum, we freshened up and head to the reception hall. After a few minutes of wait, we wished the couple and head to the lunch room. We were famished! Lunch was excellent, we relished the items. It was time to leave, said bye to Pushpa and her family.

We head towards Savanur with two things on mind; show Baobab trees to Malatesh and buy Savanur khara. A street vendor at Savanur suggested Shivalal angadi. We navigated the narrow streets of Svanur and found it easily. There it is Shivalal Savanur Khara and Sweet Mart.

We bought some Savanur khara and a sweet which the shopkeeper called Khambargatta. The sweet was in the form of slabs and extremely hard and brittle. The shopkeeper used a heavy steel object to break them. Done with shopping we head to Dodda Hunashe Matha to see the 3 baobab trees of Savanur, the only trees in Karnataka perhaps, India.


Kaaradgi Eranna temple coordinates: 15°2'37"N   75°18'15"E
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Detail: Kaaradgi Eranna Gudi & ruins of an ancient temple

0 Shambulingesvara Temple, Kundgol

Although I have driven through Kundgol few times years ago, I did not get a chance to visit Shambulingesvara temple. I planned it for a Saturday, itinerary for the day was Kundgol, Tibetan camps near Mundgod and Mishrikote near Hubli.

July 7, 2012

I had hires a cab for the day. Yellappa, Malatesh and I arrived at the temple by 8-15. The temple has ample space around it. A government school is located feet away from the temple, children were entering the classroom for the day.

The temple is Ekakutachala, meaning has one Garbhagudi. Shambulingesvara Gudi is a 11th century temple built by the Kadambas and then later renovated by Chalukyas. Now the temple is being cared for; note the pillars around the temple supporting the stone canopy.

This east facing temple has 3 entrances; east, south and north. 64 lathe turned & polished pillars with rich designs hold up the temple's roof. No two pillars are same in decoration ...which is a norm of ancient temple builders.

Inside the Garbhagudi is a Shiva Linga pale brown in color, this is supposed to be rare. Normally Shiva Lingas are dark grey colored. However the pedestal made of black stone. Rituals for the day is yet to begin, the archaka was preparing for the morning pooja.

While facing the Garbhagudi, on the left side is a 1'x1' ventilator. A Halegannada inscription is embedded in the walls around the ventilator shaft. Garbhagudi is flanked by murthis of Ganapati and Parvati. As you see the sculptures are intricately sculptured and well finished.

There's Basavanna, facing his lord.

The temple is a typical Kadamba style construction. Solid columns and beams. A spacious Sukhanasi runs around the periphery. Local folks have left their marks on the temple floor; a series of small pits for some kind of game.

During its hey days, each of these pillars' turned sections would be like mirrors. We are truly fortunate to be seeing such temples.I wonder if builders of those days designed to stand till the end of time.

About four or five pillar are damaged. The temple caretakers said that many years ago a powerful lightening struck here and damaged these pillars.

Delicate designs decorate the columns.

If I try to draw this design on paper, it might not turn out as neatly as it is on stone. wonder if the design conveyed a meaning too. Surely it cannot be a random design.

A lotus on the underside of one of the beams.

The outside of the temple is covered with sculptures of various gods in small mantapas and a continuous row of mini shikharas below. If you take a close look you can notice the damage- each of the characters are defaced. However, we could recognize some characters- a standing Ganapati.

Mahishasuramardhini.

A beautifully carved stone grill covering a ventilator.

By the time we went around the temple, the archaka had finished with the rituals. We did namaskara to Shambulinga and received theerta prasada.

That's Vittal Shripad Hampiholi, the archaka and caretaker of Sri Ramachandresvara Shambulingesvara Gudi. We chatted about another temple of Kundgol; Harihareshwara Gudi.

We had entered the temple premises from the rear entrance. Vittal Shripad had asked us to check out the temple's front entrance. Here we are looking at an amazing sculpture of a perfectly carved spiral and a large lotus..

There's the temple front entrance, a bit dull looking for such a lovely temple.

Vittal Shripad had asked his brother Malatesh Shripad to introduce us to Ashok Laxman Palande, a senior person of Kundgol who could tell give us some more interesting facts. We headed to Ashok's  home. In fact we ended up spending two more hours at Kindgol.

Link to videos of Shambulingesvara Gudi.

Here's a list of ancient temples of Dharwad district-

1. Somesvara Gudi, Dharwad
2. Banashankari Gudi, Amargol (between Dharwad and Hubli)
3. Chandramouleswara Gudi, Unkal, Hubballi
4. Paarshvanaath Basti, Garag
5. Paarshvanaath Basti, Amminabhavi
6. Amriteshwara Temple, Annigeri, Navalgund Taluk
7. Shambulingesvara Gudi, Kundgol

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Detail: Shambulingesvara Temple, Kundgol

0 Temples of Kotipura

August 10, 2011

Sri Madhu Kaitabha Temple of Kotipura is one of the most beautiful temples of Shimoga district. The temple is also known as Kaitabesvaragudi. It is the largest of seven temples here. A board gave out useful information about these temples.

Kubatur was ruled by the Kadambas (3-6th centuries AD), Chalukyas of Badami (6th century) Rastrakutas (7-8th centuries), Chalukya's of Kalyan (11-12th centuries), Hoysalas of Dorasamudra (11-13th centuries), Nayakas of Keladi (15-16th centuries) and was part of Banavasi-12000 province under the governance of Hoysala Vinayaditya.

The Kaitabhesvara Temple of Kubatur is one of the early temples of the Hoysala period of Vinayaditya datable to AD 1100 and is known as Kotishvara in inscriptions. Stylistically, it closely resembles the Chalukyan temples in plan, pillar order and Sikhara. The temple is east-west orientation, on plan has a Garbhagriha, a vestibule and an indented square Sikhara and Sukasana. The sculptures of Mahishamardini, Bhairava and Ganesa adorn the superstructure. There are five entrances to the Mukhamantapa. Lateral entrances are provided in addition to the conventional northern, southern and eastern entrances. The pillars of the Mandapa are circular, lathe turned and polished abd those places over the Jagati are fluted and shorter. The ceilings are ornate and the parapet placed over the heavy typical Hoysal eave has the structural representations of Ugra Narasimha, Varaha, Garuda, Kesava, etc. The Sukanasi and Garbhagriha doorways are of typical Hoysala ornate variety with Gajalakshmi at the lintel. A rare inscription in this temple refers to major temple forms of India mastered by a talented architect.

As you see the temple complex is well maintained. I was here by 8AM and happened to meet a group of boys who had come to see the temple. Since there was no guide I asked these boys to show me around.


The temple is similar to Nagaresvaragudi of Bankapur and Tarakesvaragudi of Hangal.


The Shikhara. This temple is Ekakuta meaning a temple with one Garbhagudi. One of the boys pointed out an iron ring at the top, it is visible if you enlarge the image. Another one of the iron object can be seen on the opposite side. The boys mentioned did mention how those objects happen to be there ...should have written it down.


Another view of the Shikhara.


The interior has a matrix of beautifully sculpted and polished pillars. This space is usually called as Navaranga Mantapa or Sabha Mantapa, a place for people to gather and discuss social matters.


Another view of the Navaranga Mantapa. The temple features Sukanasi around this hall. Sukanasi is a raised platform for people to be sit on.


How well the pillar is made! I'm trying to imagine to what extent engineers and builders of those days were dedicated to their profession. Did they possess some kind of Divine power?


An intricately sculpted part of the ceiling.


Halegannada inscriptions on the Sukanasi. This is not the only one, the temple had inscriptions on seven or eight places, few on Sukanasi and few on flat portions of the pillars. One of boys spotted a peacock drawing inscribed on one of the pillars. Kids are good company :) their enthusiasm is contagious.


A close look at a few words. No scope for making typos. No chance for typos- back then there was no backspace.


Ancient version of board games. You can see two of them here. The one in the background is Chakka-Bara, a game played to this day.


A little Basavanna at the temple entrance.


The temple complex has a small collection of hero-stones and few sculptures. A royal couple standing below Sun, Moon, Vishnu Shankha and Chakra.


Another hero-stone depicting a battle scene. The damaged top features crescent moon, a man performing pooja to Shivalinga and a Basavanna.


A little temple in a pit without a deity.


The front portion is decorated with finely sculpted art. This little temple reminds me of Billeswara temple of Hangal.


Men riding imaginative creatures; body of a horse and heads of various animals and birds.


A little temple dedicated to Shivalinga.



Temple dedicated to snake gods.


My friends- Naveen, Maltesh, Vinayaka and Mahesh. If I'm not mistaken this temple is dedicated to goddess Chenglavva.


Two more temples of which one is used like a store room.



I learn that my four friends were from Anavatti, about a kilometer from this temple. I asked them if they have seen Anavatti fort. The answer was yes but nothing is left of it. A two minute drive, we were at the spot.


Houses and shops can be seen where Anavatti fort walls stood.


Couple of teenage boys living in one of the houses gave strange looks and one of them even called another boy- "aaoji yeha." ...as if their houses were about to be demolished. This is what remains of Anavatti fort, just like many other forts of Karnataka.


My friends said bye. I promised to send their pictures. Our next destination was Belligavi about 25km from here. We decided to have breakfast and proceed.

Kotipura temple complex Coordinates: 14°34'32"N 75°8'50"E

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Detail: Temples of Kotipura