0 Mahishamardini temple near Layagundi

About 4 years ago during a trip to Aihole, at a snack shop while spaeking to local folks I learned about an ancient temple on the other side of river Malaprabha. One of the persons said it could be reached by crossing the cart bridge near Galaganatha and Ramlingeshwara temple complexes. I was curious about the temple but made no effort to locate it.

February 23, 2013

Itinerary of the day was to visit forts at Katgeri, Guledgudda, Shantagiri and Pyati and also an unknown fort near Pattadkal. After Katgeri and Guledgudda forts we took Guledgudda-Layagundi-Pattadkal road. About 9 kms to Pattadkal, at a village named Sabbatahunashi we stopped to ask if people knew about the unknown fort. Folks told us the only fort is at Layagundi; we had already passed through Layagundi and we had seen a bastion on a hillock. The person suggested us to check out an ancient temple and gave directions; a dirt track flanked by fields. The temple is called as Maleyavvana Gudi. He also said there's Halae Layagundi (old Layagundi) fort near by. However the walls have collapsed and people have looted the stones from the walls. We thank him and decided to check out the temple.

The track rougher as we went in deeper. 5 minutes later we found Maleyavvana Gudi, situated right next to a pond, at the base of a hillock.

The immediate surroundings was deserted, it was silent except for birds chirping. The temple is small but a beauty though it lacks any kind of care. The temple is raised on a high platform ~ adsishthana. A 5-step stairway leads to the mukha-mantapa which is connected directly to the garbhagudi.

In the garbhagudi is a heap of stones probably one of the  collapsed walls. The deity, a oil & vermilion covered statue of Mahishamardhini is placed in the mukha-mantapa. The deity was decorated with pink periwinkles. The wall next to the statue is a recent addition, its not the original part of this temple.

Outside the temple, to its right were two more similar sculptures of Mahishamardhini. The sculptures were made of sandstone, hence they are so worn.

The platform ~ adsishthana is quite simple but not entirely plain. Faded floral designs surely would have looked great back then.

A close look at one of the murals.

So this is the temple Aihiole folks had mentioned. This must one of the experimental temples, built 1500 years ago by Badami Chalukyan kings.

This place would be amazing if rains were normal. The pond would be full and the temple would look fresh and bright.

We did look around for the fort but nothing in the vicinity. I gave up because this deviation plan should not upset the itinerary, we decided to head back the road and search for the unknown fort.

Here's a schematic showing the location of Maleyavvana Gudi. The dirt track we took is not shown here. If you wish to see the temple, go to Galaganatha temple complex and cross the bridge; the temple is a 10 minute trek from the river.

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Detail: Mahishamardini temple near Layagundi

0 Malgitti Shivalaya, Badami

September 16, 2013

Our day started with an expedition to see prehistoric rock paintings on Badami hills with my friends Dariappa, Satarkar and Malatesh, and our guide was a local lad named Pundalik. The experience was extraordinary because the figures in those paintings were not the usual types seen at other prehistoric sites. They seemed to be pictures of extraterrestrial beings.. of course I've not seen any ETs but those pictures definitely were different from earthly beings. Then we had breakfast at Badami and went to Halae Mahakoota, the older version of Mahakuta. Then we were back at Badami to see the seldom visited spots of Badami. We went around Agastya Theerth, saw a small cave dwelling used by ascetics of ancient times, the ruins of present-day-sculptures, an ancient diving board and then dropped off Dariappa who had some work to catch up. Satarkar insisted us on visiting Maalagitti temple situated on the western side of Badami's north fort.

We climb up the steps towards the temple, the fort hill towering above us.

The temple is perched at the top of a large monolith.

It's a temple built on a raised Adishtana, has one Garbhagudi, a Sabha-Mantap and a Mukha-mantap. The interior is relatively plain while the exterior is moderately decorated with figures of gods and human beings. The sculptures are quite different from what can be seen at similar temples at Badami, Pattadakal and Aihole.

The front porch- Mukha-mantapa - features four heavy columns.

On the sides are grilled windows and sculptures of gods, elephants and human beings.

On each of the side walls, on the exterior are two large sculptures of standing Shiva and Vishnu on left and right respectively. Shiva's Trisula and Vishnu's Charkra & Shankha are prominently displayed along with there consorts Parvati and Laxmi.

The temple entrance is flanked by sword wielding Dwarapalas. On the left side, right next to the door is a Kannada inscription.

A metal rod stuck in a hole. Was it fixed to work as a stopper or did it get jammed by mistake?

Following are a series of sculptures on the exterior.

a chubby elephant head

King's sculpture?

Court jesters?

Men engaged in wrestling competition? 

seems like a plump woman with a pot

more jesters?

a collage of frames depicting more people

musicians?

These images are different from others; they have a unique identity.

The temple offers a good view of the surroundings. The fort above and also part of the rock-cut temples on the other side of Agathya Theerth.

On the left are columns of rock formation; one of the columns is leaning on it's neighbor forming a shelter between them. In that shelter is a shrine ..now occupied by Muslims.

Badami is much more than what people know and what tourists see. Our thanks to Satarkar. Maalagitti temple is special to him because he started his career in ASI as a care-taker of this temple.

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Detail: Malgitti Shivalaya, Badami

0 Chandaalingeshwara Gudi, Bilagi

November 24, 2012

This was the second surprise discovery of the day; we noticed a sign pointing the direction to Chandaalingeshwara Kshetra. We did not know what to expect here because we had no clue about this place. The terrain was interesting- hilly and wooded, not many people around but we did see few barren fields. The temple stood where the road ended. This is the temple's Mahadwara ~ main entrance, built in a pit. Three steps descend into the gateway, then an aisle flanked by seating platforms. I guess the gateway pit used to be filled with water so that visitors could wash their feet and then enter the temple.

To the left of the Mahadwara are columns and beams... seems like an incomplete shelter for pilgrims.

And to the right is a shelter and the unique walls which create a fort like look.

The gateway as seen from inside.

A short walk thorough a sandy path to the next gateway. This temple seems to be built in the path of a major stream- I say that because of the presence of sand here. Rain water might have washed down sand from the hill next to this temple. In fact the temple is situated in a bowl at the base of a hill.

A temple has been built in the outer wall. A badly damaged but a very interesting sculpture of Trimurthy on the lintel. Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu. As you see Shiva is dominating in the form of Nataraja. Parvati, Nandi and Ganesha are also present. The character riding the elephant could be Indra.

A close look at the top part of the outer wall.

The inner gateway. I wonder why people are obsessed about painting stone structures.

This is not just one temple but a complex of many temples. This orange-pink coated structure is the main temple. It's a Shiva temple.

The poojari told if rains are normal, the Garbhagudi was be water logged. Right next to this temple is a closed well with a flight of steps leading into it. Water was clear and odor free. A very interesting place, it was very peaceful. Every surface of the temple interior is covered in oil paint. Madness. Anyway, the poojari performed Arati and even allowed Malatesh to made a video.

Opposite the temple is Basavanna... he looks chubby :-) A pair of Ganesha sculptures were places at Basavanna's feet (see inset).

This white structure is the second largest temple in this complex.

I went around the inner wall. Some how this place reminds me of Mahakoota. A sculpture leaning against the inner wall looked like a Jaina image.

Yes, its a Jain image.

Images of two ladies.. they could be princesses. Notice the pattern of the skirt. Thank God, the painters have spared these two sculptures.

This is exactly behind the structure housing the Basavanna ~ Nandi.

Ths row of 24 small temples is along the Southern wall of the complex. I remember seeing a sculpture in one temple- see inset. The sculpture depicts a couple sitting cross-legged. The man is bearded and wearing a heavy looking turban. A Shiva Linga is floating over the woman's head.

Few more small temples. most of them were labeled with names of the Gods they were dedicated to.

The temple poojari could not tell us what period the temple belonged to. Neither did any of the boards placed at the temple entrance. Since the temples are built in sandstone and reminded me of Mahakoota, this could be a temple built during Badami Chalukyan rule. Do check out the video of Chandaalingeshwara Kshetra.

We were hungry but decided against the idea of having lunch at the temple. We drove a kilometer or so and found small tree next to huge rock bed. The spot was deserted, silent, clean and light breeze blowing away the heat. Great! We had a relaxed lunch, menu was katak rotti, madki kaal, cucumber, tomato, curds, chatni...

Few weeks later we happened to read an article on Chandaalineshwara in Samyukta Karnataka. The article states the temple is a Madami Chalukyan creation and mentions the presence of a partly damaged 7-line Halegannada inscription dated 1345 BCE. According to the inscription, land had been donated by two people named Bhandari and Hegde Maramayya. Also another name Nandi is mentioned. However, it is not clear as to who these people are. The article also mentions this might have been a major Jain center.

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Detail: Chandaalingeshwara Gudi, Bilagi

0 Halae Mahakoota

While researching Badami's big hill- Hiregudda -I stumbled on the small area marked as Halae Mahakoota. Halae is the Kannada word for old. Besides Halae Mahakoota, Hiregudda is also home to Badami's rock-cut temples and forts, Ranganathaswamy temple, Naganatha temple, Sidlapadi, and Mahakoota.

September 16, 2012

Approximately midway between Shivayogi Mandir to Mahakoota a narrow dirt path on the left side leads to Hale Mahakoota. A large Aalada Mara with lots of aerial roots acts like a gateway to the monument.

Other side of the Aalada Mara.

Halae Mahakoota and Mahakoota are similar but the former is smaller and seems much older than the latter.

Three large Aalada Mara dominate Halae Mahakoota.

The trees look pretty ancient. Under this tree is a shrine, two elderly women were engrossed in a ritual. Folks living in villages nearby have a tradition of visiting the place regularly. They come here, bathe in the pond and perform pooja.

Ilkal saree hung for drying.

The pond is actually fed continously by a spring. The pond overflows continuously.. a good source of fresh clean water. Local folks not only take bath but also bathe their cattle and clean their vehicles.

That's the pond and the Shiva temple.

That's the main temple of Hale Mahakoota.

The temple's structure is similar to Durga temple at Aihole. Front portion has two corners while the rear part is rounded. The temple walls are half buried in earth. Architecture is Chalukyan.

Basavanna looking at the Shiva Linga in the Garbhagudi.

A temple without a deity in ruins.

A temple chariot chassis. Perhaps the chariot is under repair at a different place.

For some reason Chalukyan temple builders decided to build temples at the new site i.e at Mahakoota about 2km from here. Both Hale-Mahakoota and Mahakoota have fresh water springs but the number of temples is more at the new site. Perhaps, the new site had better source of water and that could be the reason to abandon Halae-Mahakoota.

A short video of the place:

Halae-Mahakuta coordinates: 15°55'27"N   75°44'20"E
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Detail: Halae Mahakoota