0 Naganatha Temple

April 3, 2011.

One of the restored temples in Badami region which most tourists do not notice or do not bother to visit. The temple is off Banashankari-Shivayogi Mandir road, its one kilometer inside a shallow valley in between ridges. The location is little secluded, that made me wonder; why such a location?

The approach road was under repairs, we (Praveen and Suresh mama was my company) had to park our cab pretty close to the main road and walk.


We were the only people here. First thoughts on seeing the temple: Looks quite simple and plain. Why did we bother to walk one kilometer on pebble scattered dirt path under the blazing Sun. Anyway, we are here, let's check it out.


Basavanna caught my attention. A good piece of work.


The interior is a contrast of the exterior. Columns and ceiling are packed with art. I just snapped a couple of images. Nagadeva just above Basavanna.


Lord Shiva & Parvati riding Nandi.


Lord Brahma on Lotus.


No idea who these characters are riding a ram ...it looks more like four men have floored the animal. The ram's horn stands out in the image.


Cannot identify these characters riding a leaping horse. Saddles were used back then.


The temple floor was littered with bat droppings and air was not very healthy. I decided to go out and check the exterior. Walls are plain but windows are decorated.


One round around the temple and back at the front, the figures on the columns caught my attention. Something different...


Couples in intimate positions.



Of six such couples, I found this most beautiful. The posture depicts love and closeness between them.


A closer look. Check out the curves, they look so natural. This is the most sexiest piece of stone-art I've ever seen. I was totally captivated by this image, spent a good ten minutes appreciating it.


Yes, the one kilometer walk on pebble scattered dirt path under the blazing Sun was worth the trouble. And the answer to the question why such a location: who ever got his temple made, wanted to keep it a secret ...not for everyone's eyes- that's my thought.

I'll make it a point to visit Naganatha temple again and spend time inside. I'm sure I missed lot of interesting art... we had to leave since the main topic for the day was Aihole.

The only video I shot here.

Naganatha temple Coordinates: 15°54'10"N 75°44'19"E

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Detail: Naganatha Temple

0 Banashankari Temple Tank and Lamp-Tower

During my visit early 2000, the tank was dry, it's bed was in plain view. Many pilgrims would miss the customary bath. I guess North Karnataka was reeling under drought for the fourth year. The next visit, sometime 2009, the tank was full, a sight I enjoyed. I was here with Chetan and Dr.Kamat. We visited Banashakari Temple, had rotti & palya and moved on to Badami.

April 3, 2011.

This visit, Pushkarni was half full even during summer. On the left is the multi-level deepastamba, middle is the snana-ghatta ~ bathing place and to the right is Banashankari temple gateway.


The tank must be 80m x 80m. Three sides of the tank perimeter have stone shelters for pilgrims.


Long rows of sandstone pillars support thick slabs overhead. Built hundreds of years ago, thousand of travelers must have found this three-sided shelter a relaxing place.


The eastern perimeter. Every column, every beam in perfect alignment. Total quality control right from designing to execution.


Ports with steps to access water are provided at regular intervals. The distance between each bathing place is enough to give little privacy.


There's the imposing five story lamp-tower. Chetan and I had climbed up tower during my previous visit. The view from the top is little chaotic with modern construction around the temple, however the climb was adventurous, we got to see the inner beauty too. Every level has pockets (for oil) with little notches (for wicks). I wonder if they light up the tower. What a sight it would create after sunset, entire tower glowing with little lamps and the light reflecting in the water. I wish I could see it once.


As seen from street level. I marvel at the engineering precision and the artistic beauty in this structure. Its one great assembly of hundreds of stones sculpted to fit perfectly. And its been there standing for centuries. And the architecture; one can never get bored unlike modern day building designs.


We had step over the elephant's head to climb onto the first level. You can see two arms on either sides with pockets for oil & wick at the ends. The lamp on the right is damaged while the one on the left is intact.


Another lamp-tower, built on the wall around Shakhambari (another name of goddess Banashankari) temple.


Within the temple walls there are 3 or 4 smaller lamp-towers shaped like menhir. Over the last two years of travelling, during my visits to ancient temples in North Karnataka, I've seen 3 major designs in deepastambas: simple monolith design, tower with menhir at the top with a built-in stairway and the complex multi-level design. Banashankari temple boasts of all 3 types. The only other lamp-tower equal in height (or taller ) is the one at Mallya Temple on Bijapur-Gulburga Road.

The temple chariot stands idle through the year except for the annual fair.


Imagine the resources employed to carve, sculpt and move thousands of thousands of tonnes stones and build thousands of temples of matchless beauty. Temples, ponds, shelters are created for all to use, for the society, not for personal glory. Tombs and palaces of Muslim rulers are no doubt beautiful but they were made to glorify individuals. From what I've read, Muslim rulers have often employed prisoners and forced people into slavery to build their dream structures. Well, there are differences in cultures...

Do make it a point to visit Banashankari if & when you are at Badami. Its not just Badami Caves. Its not just Badami, Pattadkal and Aihole. It should be Banashankari, Badami, Mahakuta, Pattadkal and Aihole.

Banashankari Coordinates: 15°53'15"N 75°42'18"E

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Detail: Banashankari Temple Tank and Lamp-Tower

0 Banashankari Temple

Banashankari is about 3 or 4 kilometers from Badami.

That's one of the many Deepastambas around the temple.


The tower sits on the edge of the temple pond - Pushkarni. Unfortunately during my visit, the pond was completely dry. The tower is multi-storeyed, it's hollow with places to light Deepas inside. One can go till the terrace where you can see it's mast. This tower can host thousands of oil lamps. Wish to see it lit up during a night.


That's a view of the pond bed through one of the windows.

I'm not sure if this too is a lamp tower but it's a part of the main temple.


I've seen this type of Deepastamba in lot of temples in North Karnataka and parts of Maharastra.


Travelers shelter all around the Pushkarni.


My last visit here was sometime 2003. One of the days in the near future I'll visit Banashankari temple again.

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Detail: Banashankari Temple