0 Narshimha Jhira, Bidar

Narasimha Jhira is a cave temple. The cave is more of a tunnel with chest high water. To reach the deity one has to wade through water entire length of the tunnel. During the 1996 Bidar visit Gulli and I did not go into the temple because we would get wet.

Jan 28, 2011

I was here with three maternal uncles. We reached the temple quite early, I think it was 8AM. The temple's premises was chaos, because of renovation activity the entire place was dug up. We got our tickets, we were the first ones to go into the temple. A young man from Andhrapradesh who also wanted to go in tagged along, perhaps he wasn't comfortable going in alone.

The tunnel's mouth. We'll have to walk 300 feet in chest high water. An air conditioning system is in place to pump in fresh air. The tunnel is well lit by a series of light bulbs. I'm trying to imagine how this tunnel would be sand fresh air and lighting systems.

I went in with my camera bag held high above my head. Initially water was clear and tummy level. As we went in deeper it rose to chest level and water wasn't that clean. We could see dead roaches and bat droppings floating. I had thoughts of turning back but curbed them. The air had a foul odor. We went in ignoring the conditions and finally reached the dead end, that's where the temple is.

The man accompanying us had brought offerings for the deity- flowers, incense and camphor. We struggled to light the agabhatti.

Shivalinga and Basavanna.

I guess this idol is Narasimha.

We must have spent five minutes in the temple. The stench of rotting bodies of roaches and bat droppings was too much to bear. On the way out, about half way through a family of 3 or 4 elders plus 2 kids passed by. The group was lead by a man with a little boy on his shoulder pushing a plastic bowl filled with offerings for the deities. One of the men seemed scared, he was shivering and chanting holy names. I think one of them asked how much more to go. We assured them its safe and not very far to go.

I was relieved to be back in the open and breathe fresh air. More people had gathered, many looked like Andhraites. The water from the tunnel flowed out into a shallow pool where kids were enjoying playing in the water. I felt it was better to go in early. Later the tunnel could get crowded and conditions worse then what we experienced. Anyway, the experience was unique.

We headed back to our hostel at the Agricultural Research Station outside Bidar. The other destinations on our itinerary of the day were Bidar Fort, Astur, Mahmud Gawan Madrasa, Guru Nanak Jhira and Barid Shahi Tomb.

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Detail: Narshimha Jhira, Bidar

0 Badami Fort

Badami Fort is spread over the hills in two parts, North and South, with the Agasthya Teertha in between. I had explored the Northern fort two times, according to a source Tipu Sultan's treasury was housed here. I had seen Southern fort long time back... during my first visit, early 80s. I cannot remember much except climbing the crazily narrow, high and steep steps. During my second visit late 90s I was disappointed to see the doorway locked. Guides told that a tourist had a fatal accident on the steps. And I ended up seeing this view during four visits.


I was determined to go up and see the fort. There has to be another way, it's such a big hill. I checked Google Maps and found a way but decided to check with locals is if anyone could guide me up.

View of both Northern and Southern parts of Badami fort.


Closer look at North fort.


The South fort- my destination.


We had reached Badami Caves by 7-15. We inquired one of the locals about the way up and a guide. Fortunately the person was encouraging... said it's not difficult to reach up, you can go on your own but would be better to take someone who nows the way around. I opted for the latter option. Soon we were introduced to a lady who in turn found the guide- Avanesh. I was skeptical if I would get along with Avanesh, he had a frown and he had woken up after a late night celebrating India's victory in the World Cup Cricket. Never mind...

Avanesh lead and I followed... first couple minutes the path was filty. Then it was fine but I got stuck at a bend, a very tricky crossing. The part of the rock had neither proper foot hold nor hand hold. To add to my dilemma, rock was slippery and a fall will end 10 feet below on a bed of thorns- Peek-Jaali-Mullu. Actually this path is often used by locals regularly and Avanesh just went around the bend as though he walked on plain land. I made Avanesh demonstrate three times and I was successful the third time. I asked him if any more circus ahead. No. The path ahead was through a cleft in the rock hill, climb was steep, over mounds of stones, had to step carefully. We might have climbed less than 10 minutes, we reached the top and the fort was in view.


Masons who built forts like this one must have been real brave characters.


The first cave is right below this wall.


The lonely cannon. You can see it's nose from down below.


Way to the steps leading down to the caves. Note how steep and narrow the stairway is. I wanted to go closer but Peek-Jaali-Mullu blocked my path. In fact the entire fort is littered with thorns. If not for the villagers gathering them, the place would be out of bounds.


The walls are well preserved but nothing inside them is left standing. to the left you can ruins... of a small palace?


Looks like a doorway to a royal home.


This part of the fort is built on the edge of a sheer cliff, two or three bastions and walls.


We were done and ready to head down. I asked Avanesh if there's anything else to see. Do you want to see old images? Yes! I imagined seeing some pre-historic paintings. Again, Avanesh lead and I followed. The view from above was great. Sun was bright but the breeze cooled me. 500m further rocks had strange shapes like inverted ice-cream bowls.


During rainy season a stream would be flowing very close where we are now. The stream would dive down the hill and flow into Agastya Threertha. The place would be stunning during rainy season.


Probably the biggest ice-cream bowl.


We must have walked a kilometer to reach this little cave temple with a neat row of standing figures, an inscription in Devanagari script, a pond of it's own and a small room. I asked for the name, Avanesh told and I forgot to make a note of it... some Theertha.

The room.


Part of the pond. Water was pretty clean but plastic a dozen bags floated in it.


Row of standing figures.


The largest figure. Is that Suryadeva? If you look below, it looks like a chariot drawn by seven horses.


The inscription in Devanagari.


The place is great, one can sit and mediate without anyone to disturb.

We had go back, Praveen and Suresh Mama did not want to join me in the climb, they were waiting at the car park. And we had to go to Aihole, I wanted to spend few hours this time... last time it was a rush, hardly saw anything. We head back towards the fort.

White building standing on the horizon are ruins of Badami Sugar Factory.


The climb down was not very difficult... only I had to choose firm stones to step on. Back at our tricky bend, I managed in one go. It was easier in this direction. I felt good. Finally I did see the fort. Thanks to Avanesh. We did get along fine :) There he is-


Later in the day, at Aihole, I learn about pre-historic rock paintings around Badami. I want to come back one day, get someone who's seen them and see them. Hope the day comes soon.

We head towards Banashankari.

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Detail: Badami Fort

0 Cave temple of Amminabhavi

I heard about Aminbhavi's cave temple from Shrikant, a trusted driver with Janani Travels. Shrikanth's description about the place made me inquisitive and decided to visit it.

The cave temple is inside a Hindu cemetery, about 200m from Dharwad-Saundatti road. The underground cave was carved out of a monolith single handedly by an ascetic between 1962 and 1977. The ascetic was a worshiper of Lord Shiva.


This board reads "Rundra Bhumi Gavi Aminbhavi" and gives a preview of the place: the artistic impression of the ascetic meditating and the four important art works of this temple. Going clockwise from top right image: Shiva Linga, five headed Nagappa, Basavanna and self portrait of the ascetic. The board also mentions the date of establishment.


Company of the day- Veerersh, Chetan and Neelkant. The visit would have been less interesting without these guys around.


The front yard is little messy with firewood and the utensils strewn around. A notable feature in the front yard: two fully grown ganja plants. However the inside of the cave is clean except for powdery mud which coats the floor and walls.


The gateway to the temple. I remember Shrikanth telling that the ascetic who created this temple landed himself in trouble with the law and was evicted from here. The person in this picture, the current swami, takes care of the temple now. He's lighting two kerosene lamps... the cave is really dark.


Cave's plan



Camera flash was useless because of kerosene smoke. Light would reflect and make pictures hazy. I decided to shoot without flash but that's not easy... hands have to be rock-steady. The little tripod came in handy.


Though orange dominates the picture, these images give a better feel of the place. This is the five headed Nagappa.


The star-shaped fire-pit. Few feet from the pit to the right is the meditation chamber.


Self-portrait of the ascetic.


Wish I had a bigger tripod... This image is shaky. Our artist-ascetic was definitely skilled in carving stones. Arches in doorways were symmetric and decorated floral and geometric motifs. In fact the ascetic was a good civil engineer with a great sense of architecture.


Part of the Basavanna can be seen here. Shiva Linga was behind me. behind these guys the doorway which opens to the hall.


We are in the center of the hall. See the arches on the ceiling


Thanks to the junior swami for the tour. I don't think he missed any of the details. In the beginning a bat zipped past us. Veeresh asked if they attack to which this Swami said "No, they are harmless. They too are lives like us."


End of the tour I asked the Swami to play the tamburee... he chanted Om Namaha Shiva with the tamburi's twang in the background. The Trishul looks deadly.


I placed a 50 rupee note on the platform, in front of the photo. According to Hindu tradition, when one meets holy men, food grains or money should be donated to them. I wish the money is utilized sensibly.


Shiva bhaktas like the one here are known to use ganja (marijuana) on a regular basis. We plucked 3 little branches with the beautiful five-pointed leaves to take home. Personally I feel Ganja is better than alcohol, Ganja makes a person introvert while alcohol makes a person extrovert. Ascetics smoke Ganja to turn their minds inward... towards inner-space.

Do check out one of the ... Aminbhavi Cave Temple videos.

I liked the cave temple, it' on my list of places to visit again. The name Aminbhavi roughly translates to Amin's Well. It's said the well is huge. Also Aminbhavi's Jain Basti is well known ...we'll come again for these two. We moved on since we had to cover two more places on our itinerary- Parasgad Fort and Hooli.


Cave temple coordinates: 15°32'2"N 75°3'30"E

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Detail: Cave temple of Amminabhavi