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Kurnool and Alampur

Kurnool was one of the destinations I frequently visited in Andhrapradesh during the 90s. The town’s situated on the east bank of river Tungabadhra. Incidentally the city is only on the east bank. On the west bank are the industries of TGV group.

During one of the visits, we went for a walk in the river bed. Rivers in Rayalseema belt are mostly shallow and wide. The bridges across the rivers are long. I’ve hardly seen rivers flow in this region, except for this one- Tungabadhra and Krishna.

It was a summer evening; the breeze was refreshing after a day of traveling from Bangalore and then work at one of TGV factories. As we entered the river bed, we noticed musk melon creepers… it was towards the end of the season, most of them were dry. The Kurnool variety musk melon is very popular.

Walking on dry sand was fun and needed lot of effort. As we approached the waters, I noticed this lovely little anchor. It was beautiful!




Wondering what an anchor is doing here? Small boats are used here to ferry people across the river from the town to the factories. I rode one of the bigger ones, powered by a diesel engine, couple of times. The route was a round-about one since it had to be navigated through the deepest parts of the river.




In the picture above, you can see a part of the ruins of the fort supposedly built during Tipu Sultan’s reign. Kurnool has its place in Andhra history.



During another visit, we decided to check out other historical monuments within the city. This one is a small structure built like a fort, it's called as Kondareddy Buruju.




The windows are carved out of single slabs of stones.



Look at the walls and the floor… they look solid.





We spent some 45 minutes looking around. We could get a 360 degree of the flat city. Kurnool’s and Davangere are two towns which are real flat.


During the same visit, we heard about Alampur, a little temple village about 22km from Kurnool. We got see few temples, a mosque and almost dry lake bed.

One of the temples in the outskirts of the village was not originally built here. It’s shifted from another village which is presently under the waters of a reservoir. ASI has put in lots of efforts into this project; mark every stone and dismantle the temple, shift the stones and assemble it back at Alampur. In fact, Alalmpur has lot of historical importance.


The sculptures are beautifully decorated with floral and geometrical designs. Every sculpture tells a story from the Hindu mythology. In the picture below, you see a half man-half woman figure in the entrance of the temple. The guide told us a story behind the temple but I cannot recall any of it.






This temple could be one of the experimental temples.


And this snake god carving (which was lying out on the street) is supposed to have been to Paris and back for an art exhibition. There’s a small museum too with a small collection of stone sculptures.


We were almost done and we were passing the mosque within the temple complex and we noticed a huge cane basket inverted over a platform. Out of curiosity we asked a kid what was under that? Chicken? Out of no-where a bunch of kids were on the scene and a Mullah cam and moved the ‘cane basket’. Wow! I was awe-struck seeing a bowl carved out of black granite.


The Mullah told us that during festivals, this bowl would be filled with food and people would have handfuls out of it. The carvings on the sides are intricate. This picture does not tell much, you have to see it live. If not for anything in Alampur, you have to visit the place just to see this stone bowl.

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Horsley Hills

This was one of the wildest trips I'd ever been. I picked the place out of Andhra map and planned the trip... route, time and all.

Satish, Prithvi, Ganesh, Praveen (Mama) and I took off on my Kinetic Honda scooter and two Yamaha RX 100 bikes. We left Bangalore at 6PM with one tent, booze, soft drinks, a one-foot Rambo style knife. We hardly travelled 45km, these guys stopped (against my wishes) at a road-side restaurant on the outskirts of Kolar. these guys were desperate for booze. We had dinner too and the session went on till 10PM.

The journey resumed, we continued towards our destination... Madanapalli and then Horsley Hills. We crossed Karnataka-Andhra border and after few kilometers, we stopped at a fork, we were confused and the map was confusing us even more. So we waited for some vehicle to come by... a KSRTC bus almost ran Satish who was waving at the driver to stop. After about 5 mins, a Ambassador car came by, this guy stopped but a good 30 meters away from us. Satish walked towards the car trying to find out the directions... the driver just took off. It was Mama's doing- he waved the knife at the car driver and done the same at the bus too. Finally we decide to take the direction of in which the bus and car had come.

2 AM, Madanapalli was sleeping except for two guys loading something into a car... We asked them directions for Horsley Hills and took off in that direction. We really took off since the roads were very good. At times I hit 90s on my Kinetic Honda even though it was not comfortable with a box full of bottles and a tent on the foot-board. We reached the hill-station but the place was sleepier than Madanapalli, not a soul to be seen anywhere! It was 3AM. The place was dark & misty and we were tired & sleepy. We did not bother to look for a hotel. We found a level grassy patch and pitched the tent.

Prithvi, Ganesh, Praveen, Satish
The tent was too small for five grown-ups and especially with four drunks. I did not sleep at all... foul air, snores, stones poking from beneath and cold air. I was just waiting for dawn and the moment I saw light, I asked these guys to wake up. No. No response. I just crawled on them out of the tent! Freshened my mouth with 'Sprite' and started looking for a tea-joint. Nothing in sight. We rented a guest house for few hours, had tea and freshened up. By the time I finished my bath, Mama, Prithvi and Ganesh were drunk! At 9 30 AM!

Drunk at 10-30 AM
We rode around the place... not a very big hill-station but a beautiful one. It's named after a British army officer Horsley. Andhra's highest point is located at Horsley Hills. We climbed up and finally reached a point where we had to climb through a tree's branches to cross-over to another rock. Only Prithvi and I went right to the top. Mama and Ganesh were too drunk for the adventure and Satish... Forget it!

We did some more sight-seeing before we decided to head back. The down-hill ride was fun, we free-wheeled most of the way, leaning heavily through the curves.

Dog looking at Prithvi
This time, we headed towards Chitamani instead of Kolar and stopped for a typical Andhra meal. We stopped on and off through the journey... just like that.


An unforgettable trip!!
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