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Temple on a ledge, Gajendragad

November 24, 2012

The agenda for the day was to visit Hanamasagar, Dammur and Arshibidu. We started early, took Gadag-Gajendragadh-Hanamasagar route. As we drove out of Gajendragadh a lone hill came into view. The hill looked as it was created by a rock trying to break out of the ground below.

What caught our attention was a temple on a narrow ledge and ruins of a fort at the top.
We decide to climb and have breakfast up there. The temple is actually built on a overhang barely 10' wide.
A narrow flight of steps is the only way link to the temple.

That's Ravi looking down at the gap we just climbed out from. I was half way inside the shelter when I shot this picture.

What seemed like a temple may not be one because there's no Garbhagudi. Perhaps this is a shelter or an incomplete temple.

The ledge is barely 15' wide. A stone rolled here would plunge down to meet the hill slope 40 feet below and then continue rolling down.
A cavern. This might have been the temple. There are two sculptures; an elephant and a 2½' standing human figure, eyes shut and palms joined. The human sculpture could be of a prince or a king.
A water tank to store rain water. We had breakfast; upit and black tea.

Ravi decided to go back to his cab. Malatesh and I wanted to explore the hill top. We went past the water tank, a really narrow path. Few steps and a ruined gateway lead us here.

The construction is neat.

An ancient quarry site- stones for the temple-like structure, walls and and a bastion must have been sourced from here.

That's the summit with an incomplete watch tower and walls.

This hill offered a good view of Gajendraghad fort and surrounding plains. Perhaps, a smaller fort was planned here as to give security to the main fort. Malatesh in action- he's shooting the main fort with his camcorder mounted on a tripod.

Part of the main fort. These forts were built when this area was under Chatrapati Shivaji's rule.

Close to the base of the hill are 3 solid looking bastions 25' in diameter x 25' high. I feel a fort was planned here but the plan was abandoned for some reason.

Close look at one of the three bastions. Notice the lion and elephants emblems. This reminds me of lions at Mudkavi fort and Bijapur's Mulk-e-Maidan.

We wanted to find the name of this hill and the temple above. We found a man in a a thatch roof hut close to the base of the hill. he said they just called his hill as Somesvara. We did not bother him with more questions. Back home, while scanning the area I happened to discover another fort close to the eastern tip of the main hill. A Wikimapia user had marked it as fort near Kuntoji village. Another fort to my list.

We head towards Hanamasagar.

Coordinates: 15°44'18"N   75°59'14"E

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Gajendragad Fort

It's been a long time wish to see this hill fort... since college days. I heard about Gajendragad Fort from my engineering classmate Abdul Wahab.

October 2010.

I was one a day-trip with one of my maternal uncles, places for the day were Nargund fort, Sudi, Gajendragad Fort, Naregal and Annigeri. At Nargund we saw Sri Venkateswara temple, had breakfast but skipped the fort. We stopped at Sudi to check out it's lovely temples. About 4 km to Gajendragad town, we stopped at Kalakalesawara temple for almost an hour. At Gajendragad, we had pass through the busy market street to reach the base of the hill. We parked the cab close to the Gorphade mansion, the only way to climb the hill is by foot. The steps leading up the hill looked daunting to mama, he stayed back in the cab.


It's been a while I'd climbed but I went up slow, almost non-stop.


The bastions. The entrance is hidden from this view.


Well used steps. I could see kids and ladies with baskets climbing. I wonder what's their interest was.


Lord Hanuman's idol in the small whitewashed temple about two-thirds way up.


Almost there. The other side of the hill.


That's the entrance to the fort.


Simple but lovely art decorates the doorway.


A five headed snake.


Two lions facing each other.


Architecture typical to temples and forts of Maharashtra. This fort was built during Chatrapathi Shivaji's reign. The Gorphades were the rulers of Gajendragad.


More art work.


Inscription in Marathi ...that's my guess.


Inside the fort, looking towards the gateway. I went up the steps.


A tank carved out in bed of rock. This would be used to store rain water for soldiers' use.


Elephant head. Gajendragad = Gajendra + gad = elephant + fort. Was it supposed to mean as the fort was as strong as an elephant? But what's the idea of this idol in the tank wall. There was no information available, not board or a guide I could see.


I went walking along the wall.


Stopping to admire the view.


Gorphade mansion which had seen better days. Even though it was sunny, I could not feel the heat much because of the constantly blowing wind.


I wonder how workers moved these heavy stones so close to the edges.


The wall went on and on. I'd had a light breakfast and was getting hungry now. I decided to cut my tour of the wall and headed towards the center which is more or less flat open field. The Durgah caught my attention. I prayed, paid some money to the care-taker and got a spoonful sugar as prasad. Now I know why people come here. Few Muslim ladies were picnicking in the shade of a small tree close by ...visitors to Durgah.


A little mosque.


Close to the Durgah was this Deepastamba. From here I could see Kalakaleswaar temple.


From the Durgah I walked towards some ruins which looked like a small fort within the fort. Probably it housed the commanding officer's residence and office. Another water tank carved out of the rock.





The inside of the fort with a fort.


Looks like work some art work was abandoned. I cannot stop marvelling at skill and talent to shape stones back then. I was getting more hungry with every passing moment. I decided to head back.


Another long time wish was to see wind mills real closely. This visit made that wish come true. I spoke to the shepherd from a village close to Belgaum. I was shooting a video, the shepherds dog happened to get into the view, he was so happy to see his dog in the video when I played it for him :)


I said bye to him and then to the fort. I descended much faster then I had ascended. Back at the car I got a good wash and then gulped down water and headed out of Gajendragad towards Naregal. Two dhabas we passed by were closed because of Deepawali. Great! We had control our hunger for another 30 minutes until we reached Naregal.

Gajendragad Fort videos.

Gajendragad Fort Coordinates: 15°44'28"N 75°57'55"E

.........

Itgi and Kuknur

After lunch, Advesh and I continued our journey... he spoke about various other historical monuments in Gadag district as I drove on NH63. At Bannikoppa we turned off the highway and took the narrow country road. A short drive and we were at Itgi, I parked the car under a tree opposite Itgi Panchyat Office and walked to the temple which is about 50m away. The temple complex was strewn with stone slabs of various sizes in various stages of work. A full scale restoration activity was in progress.

Carvings at this temple are intricate and detailed.


One should see this temple with their own eyes. This well is completely renovated with new stones. The structure looks nice but the water...


This small structure is a temple, there are totally nine such temples but only two or three have Shiva Lingas in them. Rest all seem to be vandalized.


This is the front yard of an incomplete temple.


We spoke to one of the workers, actually he's skilled at carving out stones. He admitted that what ever they did was just rough work and they could never come close to what artists of the past created. He himself was so appreciative about the hollow carvings with minute details etched into them. It was around 4PM and the group leader was waking up his team members from their siesta, asking them to gt back to work. Most of them were reluctant to open their eyes...

Having covered most of the temple complex, we decided to head towards Kukunur, which is about 8km from Itgi.

This is inside Kukunur temple. Since this is an important pilgrim center of Koppal district, the main temple is renovated with oil paint, distemper, ceramic tiles and steel rails.





We spent about 15 minutes looking around, actually there's not much to see. We headed back towards Lakkundi. I dropped off Advesh there and then drove back towards Dharwad. Overall it was not a trip I really enjoyed ...possibly because of the humid weather of the day.

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